Ingredients

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are low molecular weight water soluble organic acids that are found naturally occurring in various fruits and foods (e.g. lactic acid from milk, glycolic acid from sugar cane, malic acid from apples, tartaric acid from grapes and citric acid from citrus fruits). Glycolic acid, an AFA, safely exfoliates the outer layer of dead skin cells on the surface of your skin, reducing fine lines, age spots, acne scars, and irregular pigmentation. This is beneficial for those who are looking for ingredients that help with anti-ageing. Glycolic acid can also help lighten discolouration of the skin, such as sunspots or age-spots, and help those with acne-prone and blackhead-prone skin.

The first signs of skin ageing come from decreased skin moisture content combined with a decrease in skin’s natural exfoliation and renewal rate, resulting in dull skin, lack of suppleness, dryness, uneven pigmentation and fine lines and wrinkles. Advanced AHA corrects both of these problems by signalling to the cells to make hyaluronic acid, our skin cells’ natural moisture substance, and therefore prompting the skin to “self moisturise”, or moisture from the inside out. A unique combination of Lactic acid and Essential skin antioxidant vitamins helps normalise skin exfoliation and renewal rate to return the skin to more youthful healthy appearance. It is especially effective when combined with vitamin C products.

Salicylic Acid (BHA)

Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid derived from the bark of a willow tree. It has both cosmetic and medicinal uses. It is often found in skin care products because of its ability to treat acne, and other skin conditions. Salicylic acid works by causing the cells of the epidermis to shed properly. This prevents skin pores from getting clogged up and subsequently being infected with bacteria. For this reason, it aids in the process of exfoliation by eliminating surface skin cells and opening up the pores. The acid is also known to break down blackheads and whiteheads as well as other types of acne. Salicylic acid also exfoliates the skin to improve texture and help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Overall, salicylic acid provides anti-ageing benefits, smoothens the skin and helps prevent and resolve blackheads and microcomedones, which are the basis of eventual acne lesions.

Retinol

Cellular turnover is slowed down with age and new cells are generated less rapidly and remain on the skin for longer. Retinol с (a derivative of vitamin A) regulates expression of genes through binding to nuclear transcription factors, thereby increasing activity of the cells and cellular turnover in the skin. This leads to more rapid synthesis of new cells, as well as faster migration and detachment from the skin surface, and prevents or reduces many conditions associated with cellular build-up. Furthermore, retinol constricts the sebaceous glands to decrease the sebum production and its rate of secretion, helping to minimise the look of large pores, while also helping to clear congested pores.

Pigmentation is often reduced due to more rapid turnover and replacement of hyperpigmented areas. Retinoids play a critical role in skin growth, repair and epithelial cell differentiation. Additionally, when retinol technology is formulated in combination with AHAs, there is a synergistic enhancement and the overall results are greatly intensified. Vitamin A in all forms works as a cell-communicating ingredient, meaning it can actually tell a skin cell to behave and look like a more normal, younger cell. When you have sun-damaged skin this communication is incredibly beneficial because sun-damaged skin produces unhealthy, abnormal, and inflexible skin cells.

The reason for why skin responds to skin care products with retinol is that vitamin A has a molecular structure tiny enough to get into the lower layers of skin where it finds collagen and elastin. Retinol boosts the development of two structural components of the skin, glycosaminoglycan and procollagen, designed to increase elastin and collagen production and thicken the derma layer, which helps to reduce the depth and visibility of scars and blemishes as well as reduce fine lines and skin discolouration.

Retinol is proven to improve mottled pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkled skin texture, as well as skin tone and colour, and your skin hydration levels. Using a retinol-based product may cause the skin’s top layer (the epidermis) to become dry and flaky. In this case, frequency of use should be reduced, or moisturiser and sunscreen could be applied when using it.

Chamomile

The term Chamomile actually refers to a range of different daisy-like plants, which are members of the Asteraceae family. They have been used for calming and anti-inflammatory properties, including antipeptic, antispasmodic, antipyretic, antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-allergenic activity.

Aloe Vera

Aloe is another excellent treatment for skin conditions such as burns and eczema. It is often reported that burns can be healed remarkably quickly and the pain reduces very rapidly with topical application of Aloe Vera to the burned area. As well as applying topically, Aloe can also be taken internally so it is just as useful for internal epithelial tissue as it is for the skin. Aloe works on membranes and surfaces, and it also seems to be excellent at regulating the immune system (hence can be referred to as immunomodulator). This means it can stimulate the immune response for those with weakened immune systems from existing conditions or post-illness fatigue. It can also calm the immune response, such as for hay fever where less immune reaction is beneficial.

Although Aloe is about 99% water, the remaining 1% is extremely powerful. Aloe Vera contains many minerals vital for the growth process and healthy function of all the body systems. The ingredients in Aloe can be grouped into the following categories: Vitamins, Minerals, Sugars, Enzymes, Lignins, Amino Acids, Anthraquinones, Saponins, Fatty Acids, Salicylic Acid.

Glycolic acid

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxyl acid (AHA), safely exfoliates the outer layer of dead skin cells on the surface of your skin, reducing fine lines, age spots, acne scars, and irregular pigmentation. This is beneficial for those who are looking for ingredients that help with anti-ageing. Glycolic acid can also help lighten discolouration of the skin, such as sunspots or age-spots, and help those with acne-prone and blackhead-prone skin.

Lactic acid

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxyl acid (AHA) derived from milk following a process of fermentation. It is a powerful and uniquely gentle exfoliator that is shown to increase the skin’s hydration as well as reduce the appearance of ageing skin including fine lines, wrinkles and hyper-pigmentation. Lactic acid functions as a humectant, an agent that attracts and holds onto water. It has the added benefit of filling in the spaces between skin cells in the outer layer of the epidermis called the stratum corneum. This helps to reduce roughness and makes skin feel softer and smoother. It is a particularly good moisturising ingredient for skin damaged by exposure to the sun.

Lactic acid is our body’s natural skin moisturiser and, being natural to the human body, it dramatically improves the safety profile and results of the products. Because lactic acid and glycolic acid are commonly used AHA exfoliants they are often lumped together in terms of the benefits they deliver. However, there are clear distinctions to be made. Because lactic acid, derived from sour dairy products and fermented fruits and vegetables, is a larger molecule than sugar cane-derived glycolic acid, it does not penetrate as deeply and is hence much less likely to cause irritation than glycolic acid. For this reason alone Lactic acid is the AHA of choice for sensitive, rosacea, dull skin, and for the skin that is mature, dry, lacks suppleness, has uneven pigmentation and fine lines and wrinkles.

Ginkgo biloba

Ginkgo biloba, also known as Maidenhair, has been traced back nearly 300 million years making it the oldest surviving tree species on Earth. This ancient herb acts to enhance oxygen utilisation and thus improves memory, concentration and other mental faculties.
Ginkgo biloba has been reported as demonstrating anti-oxidant abilities with improvements of the platelet and nerve cell functions and blood flow to the nervous system and brain. It has also been reported for reducing blood viscosity. Its ability to increase vascular dilation may help to ease retinal damage due to macular degradation and may reverse deafness caused by reduced blood flow.

Grapes

Grapes are very beneficial as a fruit as they contain lots of vitamin C as well as a special class of water-soluble bioflavonoids called proanthocyanidins. Studies have shown the antioxidant activity of these specific bioflavonoids is 20 to 50 times greater than Beta-Carotene or Vitamins C and E at scavenging specific free radicals.

Grape seed extract is derived from the small seeds (and occasionally the skins) of red grapes. Antioxidants are believed to prevent and control numerous ailments by safeguarding cells against the ravages of unstable oxygen molecules called free radicals.
By nourishing blood vessel walls and performing other renewing functions, grape seed extract helps to promote healthy blood pressure levels, heart health, and a proper inflammatory response.

Vitamin C

There are many skin care products on the market today that boast vitamin C derivatives as an ingredient (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, L-ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is the only antioxidant that is proven to stimulate the synthesis of collagen, which is essential since your body’s natural collagen production decreases as you age. Sun exposure will also accelerate the decrease in collagen. As you age, your body slows down its production of collagen and elastin that would keep the skin strong, flexible, and resilient. Antioxidants found in vitamin C may help to minimise fine lines, scars and wrinkles as well as strengthen skin’s barrier response, reduce inflammation, lessen hyperpigmentation and boost the efficacy of sunscreen actives.

Vitamin C has a variety of benefits for health and for maintaining healthy, youthful skin. It functions as an antioxidant, helping to offset oxidative damage that degrades collagen and leads to wrinkles and saggy skin. When skin is exposed to ultraviolet light from the sun, a sequence of events occurs that leads to free radical production. These free radicals damage skin cell membranes and activate enzymes that break down collagen and elastin, two most important proteins that keep the skin firm and youthful. Vitamin C has the ability to donate electrons to free radicals so they become less damaging to cellular structures. However, Vitamin C is not a substitute for sunscreen.

Kojic acid

Kojic acid is a non-toxic, highly effective, pigment-lightening agent derived from mushrooms. It has been used safely worldwide for many years without irritations or long-term complications commonly associated with other lightening agents like hydroquinone. Studies have shown it to be more effective than hydroquinone with results beginning to be noticeable within the first one to two. To understand kojic acid’s effects, it is necessary to understand how the skin gets its colour. The body naturally produces a pigment known as melanin through specialised cells known as melanocytes. A person’s genes determine how much melanin the body naturally produces. In people with fair skin, only small amounts of melanin are manufactured by the melanocytes, while the cells of those with dark complexions make copious amounts of the pigment. The production of melanin in the skin does not occur in fixed amounts. Often, the cells produce more melanin in response to the environment or internal conditions in the body. When the skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation from the sun, the melanocytes increase their melanin production, causing the skin to tan. Repeated exposure to the sun can result in a permanent increase in melanin production in particular areas on the skin, causing small freckles and larger sun or age spots to form.

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a type of glycosaminoglycan, a substance found naturally in the fluid that bathes joints, connective tissue and in the portion of the eye called the vitreous humour. It is also abundant in the dermis of the skin, the layer that lies just beneath the epidermis. Here, it is loosely bound to collagen and elastin fibres that give skin its firmness and ability to bounce back and hold its shape. The primary function of Hyaluronic acid is to attract and hold onto water. In fact, it can bind water up to a thousand times its own volume. With age, hyaluronic acid levels in the skin decline. Its connections with elastin and collagen fibres are also disrupted.

Hyaluronic acid retains water to the skin and acts as a super moisturiser that keep derma layer hydrated. Its microspheres act like tiny molecular sponges to impart and retain moisture in the skin. Hyaluronic acid not only provides extraordinary moisturising capabilities, but also adds volume to skin layers. The absorption and retention of water fills the skin and exerts pressure upward in the direction of the skin’s surface to give a much plumper and smoother appearance. It is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that regulates cell renewal, lubricates connective tissue and maintains skin’s moisture and elasticity.

Peptides

Peptides are proteins composed of long or short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of protein. Peptides act as signalling molecules in skin just as they do in other parts of the body. Collagen is the primary protein that gives skin its support and youthful firmness. Collagen levels decline with age and with sun exposure, and this accounts for the loss of firmness and skin wrinkling that appears as people age. Most peptides function as moisture-binding agents and almost all of them have theoretical cell-communicating ability to help skin repair itself. Some peptides alter bodily functions by serving as hormones while others act as signalling molecules, allowing cells to communicate with one another. Peptides are also increasingly being used in cosmetic and skin care products for their skin anti-aging benefits.

Amino acids

Amino acids are building blocks of proteins and have an important role in the building of collagen proteins responsible for the softness and elasticity of the skin. Although more than 200 different amino acids exist, the most well-known are the so-called 22 proteogenic amino acids. They are the building blocks of complex proteins and are therefore crucial for the growth and maintenance of key tissue, such as muscle, skin and hair. Amino acids are also sources of energy, like fats and carbohydrates, and are therefore the only substances capable of forming tissues, organs, muscles, skin and hair. The importance of amino acids as the precursors of enzymes and neurotransmitters is often underestimated. As such, amino acids regulate almost all of the metabolic processes in the human body, and they are essential for health. In addition, amino acids are extremely versatile as most hormones consist of amino acids and help to transport nutrients through the body, and antibodies that also consist mostly of amino acids, meaning lack of amino acids can quickly reveal itself in a poorly functioning immune system.

One fifth of our body consists of proteins and their building blocks amino acids. Muscles, bones and skin in particular include large amounts of protein. Amino acids are therefore essential for growth and constant repair of these tissues, and hence the typical symptoms of amino acid deficiency are poor growth of finger and toenails, skin and hair as well as poor healing of cuts and tears.

Antioxidants

Well known antioxidants (vitamin C, vitamin A, vitamin E and glutathione), as well as enzymes, protect the skin cells from oxidative damage caused by free radicals. Antioxidant is a molecule that inhibits the oxidation of other molecules. Oxidation is a chemical reaction that transfers electrons or hydrogen from a substance to an oxidizing agent. Oxidation reactions can produce free radicals, which can in turn initiate chain reactions that may cause damage or kill the cell. Antioxidants terminate these chain reactions by removing free radical intermediates and inhibit other oxidation reactions.

Insufficient levels of antioxidants, or inhibition of the antioxidant enzymes, cause oxidative stress and can be damaging or lethal for the cells. Oxidative stress seems to play a significant role in many human diseases, including cancers, as it is destruction to cell structure and cell function by overly reactive oxygen-containing molecules and chronic excessive inflammation.

Biotin

Biotin is one of the B-complex vitamins, also known as vitamin B7 or vitamin H. Biotin an important enzymatic co-factor the body uses during cellular metabolism in activation of certain enzymes, and assisting hormonal functioning and synthesis by bacteria, yeast, mould, algae and some plants.
Biotin is essential to the functions of enzymes that are required for fatty acid synthesis, formation of glucose and for metabolism of certain amino acids. Our body uses both fatty acids and amino acids as fuel for energy metabolism. Research has pointed to correlation between a lack in Biotin and seborrhoea, an excessive sebum discharge by sebaceous glands that cause the complexion to look and feel oily. HL produces formulations MULTIVITAMIN SERUM, CALM RED and FUSION, which include Biotin.

Coenzyme Q10

Coenzyme Q10, also known as ubiquinone, is an oil-soluble, vitamin-like substance present in most cells, primarily in the mitochondria. It plays a role in generating energy in the form of ATP within the cells as well in the renewal of the skin, and fights free radicals which damage the skin cells thus delaying premature ageing. It also improves absorption of various vitamins by the skin cells, improves natural cellular exchange and building of collagen in the skin. With age, the level of Coenzyme Q10 in the body decreases and research has shown that topical application may help to improve the skin.
HL products COENZYME Q10 ENERGIZER and AGE CONTROL ACTIVATOR include Coenzyme Q10.

Omega 3,6,9

Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) are fats that are required by our bodies and necessary to good health but which we’re unable to produce biologically. That means we have to obtain them through our diets. Omegas -3 and -6 are essential fatty acids which have such a good reputation for improving health. One of the key benefits of EFAs are their anti-inflammatory properties.

WHAT DO THEY DO?

EFAs support the cardiovascular, reproductive, immune, and nervous systems. The human body needs them to manufacture and repair cell membranes, enabling the cells to obtain optimum nutrition and expel harmful waste products. A primary function of EFAs is the production of prostaglandins, which regulate body functions such as heart rate, blood pressure, blood clotting, fertility, conception, and play a role in immune function by regulating inflammation and encouraging the body to fight infection. Omega-3s are used in the formation of cell walls, making them supple and flexible, and improving circulation and oxygen uptake with proper red blood cell flexibility and function. Some Omega-6s can help improve diabetic neuropathy, rheumatoid arthritis, PMS, skin disorders (e.g. psoriasis and eczema), and aid in cancer treatment. Omega-9 is not technically an EFA but is reputed to be effective in lowering heart attack risk and hardening of the arteries.

EFAs are a vital part of every cell in the body. With respect to their impact on the skin, in particular they are a necessary component of the fluid lipid film coating the skin’s surface. This film maintains moisture, softness and elasticity in the skin as well as providing a protective barrier against the entry of disease-causing organisms and harmful bacteria. The body’s normal secretion of essential fatty acids decreases with age, leaving a less moist and emollient skin, characteristic of most ageing skin. So we need to ensure that our skin retains the necessary level of Omegas-3,-6 & 9 so as to keep our EFA levels high as our skin ages, and this can be done through diet and supplements and feeding the skin directly or a combination of all three approaches. Topical application of EFAs has the added benefit of actually adding moisture and hydration, and these natural constituents become well absorbed into the epidermal and dermal layers of tissue.

TOPICAL APPLICATION OF EFA’S

How can topical application of EFS’s help and improve your skin condition? We have included Omega’s into many of our products, including our III-BALANCE PEEL and RENEW FORMULA. The topical application can have a number of hugely positive effects on the skin. The most important being, boosting lipid content and the repair of the skin’s barrier function. This helps protect delicate skin, improves moisture levels, helps the skin retain its own moisture which all leads to improved softness and elasticity. Topical application of Omegas are particularly beneficial to dry skin, conditions such as eczema and during extreme weather conditions, such as cold and wind, both of which can strip away at the skin’s lipid barrier. Natural sources of Omega’s used in HL products, include Shea Butter, Kukui Nut, Jojoba and Macadamia Oil.

Lipids

The main biological functions of lipids include storing energy, signalling, and acting as structural components of cell membranes. A lipid itself is a non-soluble molecular organic compound comprised of hydrogen and carbon. As far as their purpose in the human body goes, lipids are of crucial importance for both energy storage and cell membrane development. Some examples of important lipids are as follows:
• Triglycerides are crucial in the body for energy storage.
• Steroids benefit the body by helping determine and control the structure of plasma membrane. A few types of common steroids are cholesterol, testosterone, vitamin D2 and oestrogen.
• Phospholipids contain molecules that both attract and repel water, playing a key role in constituting cell membranes.
• Glycolipids are formed from short sugar chains that can be found in a cellular membrane’s exoplasmic surface. They play an important role in boosting the body’s immune system.
• A lipoprotein is a combination of proteins and lipids found in the cell membrane – examples being antigens and enzymes. Lipoproteins help fat move around the body in the bloodstream and exist in the form of Low Density Lipoprotein (HDL) and High Density Lipoprotein (LDL).

pH

pH is the measurement of acidity. pH is measured from 1 and upwards, with 1 being highly acidic and 14 being highly alkaline, and a pH of 7 is neutral. A pH between 1 and 6.9 is acidic and between 7.1 and 14 is alkaline. The skin is fairly acidic, which helps it ward off the advances of harmful bacteria and fungi. The optimal pH of human skin is 5.5 and you can measure it with a piece of litmus paper.

It is very important to use cleanser that is labelled as “pH balanced”. Any soap/facial cleaning soap that does not carry those words on the packaging is unlikely to be suitable for your face and could damage the skin. The acidic layer helps your skin retain moisture and keeps germs out. To help maintain the skin’s protection, the cleanser has to be with a pH level similar to that of the skin itself. If you use a soap that is too alkaline, it will break up the acid in your skin, causing dryness and damage.

Collagen

Collagen is a protein that is naturally produced by the body and is found in the connective tissues. It is significant in making certain parts of the body, such as nails, strong and is also an important factor in joint health.

Collagen is a form of fibrous protein that is normally present in the bodies of humans and even mammals. It provides a supportive structure for various body tissues such as muscles, bones and ligaments and prevents them from falling apart. It works with another compound called elastin to provide strength and firmness to the tissues. Collagen also works to keep the skin looking firm, tight, flexible and youthful.

The substance has been used for a long time in combating signs of aging. However, the production of this substance diminishes with age, leading to wrinkles and folds around the mouth, thinning of the skin and brittle hair, meaning that young people naturally produce more collagen than older people. As such, collagen stimulation leads to a more youthful looking skin.

Phytoestrogens

Phytoestrogens are substances found in some plants, such as wild yam and soy beans, and have a similar structure to oestrogen produced by the body. They are therefore able to act in a similar way to human oestrogen when ingested or applied topically and absorbed through the skin and can help bring back the hormonal balance. Plant phytoestrogens are often used to help with female hormone-related issues like menstruation, menopause, sex drive and breast fullness and firmness. During pre-menopause the natural oestrogen production falls dramatically as well as the collagen levels. This is the main reason why phytoestrogens are used in cosmetic treatments.
HL products AGE CONTROL and BOLDCARE help to balance hormones in the skin.

Probiotic

Probiotic means “for life”, and these are the beneficial bacteria that are naturally found in the digestive system and help strengthen our immune system and protect us against damage by toxic bacteria. Probiotics contribute to the renewal and improvement of the skin texture and, when applied topically, sit on the skin surface and prevent the skin cells from attack by bad bacteria and parasites that can cause an immune system response. This is known as “bacterial interference,” as probiotics protect the skin and interfere with the ability of bad bugs (or bacteria and parasites) to provoke an immune reaction. In fact, skin prone to acne or rosacea has shown improvement with daily probiotic use, giving dermatologists a good reason to consider supplementing traditional acne therapy with a dose of these beneficial bacteria.

Topically applied probiotics
Currently, some cosmetic manufacturers have started using probiotics in their products based on this early research, including probiotic masks, creams or cleansers. There are different ways that topical probiotics can benefit the skin:
• Protective Shield – in patients with acne and rosacea, living microorganisms on the skin are recognised as foreign by the body’s immune system. The immune system then springs into action to counter this potential threat, resulting in the inflammation, redness, or bumps common in these skin conditions.
• Calming Effect – when certain types of probiotics are placed in contact with skin cells, they calm the parts of the cells that may want to react to the presence of bacteria that they see as a threat. These healthy signals produced by the probiotics stop the skin cells from sending “attack” messages to the immune system that would result in flares of acne or rosacea.

Vitamin E

Vitamin E is an important vitamin required for the proper function of many organs in the body. It is also an antioxidant. This means it helps to slow down processes that damage cells. Antioxidants are agents that neutralise the oxidant effect of free radicals, which are molecules that damage collagen and cause skin dryness, fine lines and wrinkles.

Vitamin E oil has remarkable curative powers. It has the ability to heal wounds caused by small burns. Applying this oil on the affected area and rubbing it gently heals the wound over a period of time. Ensure that it is applied only after the affected area gets cooled.

Another amazing benefit of vitamin E oil is that it helps in the swift fading of scars. It is considered to be a superior treatment option for the removal of scars caused due to burns or acne. You can apply a few drops of vitamin E oil to the scar tissue irrespective of whether it is old and faded or still fresh. Gently massage the oil into the scar in a circular motion. The oil will penetrate deep into the skin to repair the scar tissue at the source, thereby helping to diminish the appearance of blemishes. This oil should be applied daily for best results.

Application of vitamin E oil twice a day on the affected area on a regular basis is effective in curing skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.

Vitamin E oil being a great skin moisturiser. Vitamin E oil not only provides the required moisture to the skin, but the presence of antioxidants in it facilitates the healing process in case of an injury. However, application of pure vitamin E oil should be avoided as it is thick and sticky. Bedtime application of oil is ideal for the healing and preservation of skin.

As skin ages, the turnover of cells and production of collagen in them begins to slow down, causing it to lose its firmness and elasticity. An unhealthy diet, pollution and exposure to chemicals further trigger the process of aging, making the skin look saggy and dull due the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Owing to the presence of powerful antioxidants in vitamin E oil, regular application of this oil on the face not only helps in smoothening out the fine lines and wrinkles but it thwarts the chances of their occurrence in the future as well. Thus, it keeps skin tight and firm.

Skin Forever Young

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